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The Washburn D11-TR is the 7th in line of my collection, just after I added the Washburn D10WH.
Both where on my wish list for years, and in one week I found both by accident.
When you look at the guitar, you will think it a standard D10 Series guitar, but there is a slight difference when you take a closer look.

The main reason that I own various acoustic Washburn guitar, is because of there unique difference in look, feel, playability and most of all there sound.
Each give there own outstanding quality sound, you can even tell the difference between both the D10 Washburn guitars.
Especially when I am recording, I’d like to have different timbered sound and

tonality to make a thick a ranch of soundscapes and when the guitar is stringed up with a heavy ranged strings, you’ll get a mind-blowing resonation which will make your hairs stand up!

The head stock needed some repairing on the lacquer since it was chipped and cracked a little.
At the end of this page I will tell you a little guide how I did this what I used to prevent the chips and cracks cost anymore damage to the head stock.

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Neck:
Inlay:
Body:
Fret
Neck:
Middle:
Bridge:
Switch:
Bridge:
Nut:

Mahogany/rosewood
Dot inlay
Mountain Ash 
6500
None
None
None
None
Sonokeling Rosewood
White plastic

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The Mountain Ash wood was one of the reasons why this Washburn guitar was on my wish list for years.
For this dreadnought body the top, side and back is manufactured out of Mountain Ash wood bound in a ivory/white colored plastic binding.

Like any of the Washburn acoustic guitars, the acoustic bracing is placed in a precisely measured calculation, so it gives you the best quality sound thinkable.
The Sonokeling rosewood bridge has a low profile with the white bone bridge saddle.

The low profile on both will give the lowest action on the strings possible which is needed to play comfortably without getting any buzz.
The guitar was available in three different finished colors, Natural, Transparent Blue and this Transparent Cherry Red.
 

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The neck is a 25.5 inch scale neck and hold 20 frets on a 320mm radius fretboard, plus the neck bound in a ABS 1.5mm Ivory neck binding.
The head is shaped in the early traditional headstock shape, finished in a clear buffed gloss top finish.
And set with a 3x3 Chrome Grover style tuning machine set for a stable tone.
The mahogany back is also finished in the same transparent Cherry Red buffed gloss finish.
The radius feels really comfortable while playing, and it is set now to a very low action on the strings.

Every now and then I will use a capo, and still with this low action I keep my strings tight without any fret buzz.
The neck join starts at the 14th fret and will still give you the space to play the upper frets when needed.
I also played the Dunlop Glass Slide on this guitar with an open E tuning, this worked surprisingly well and sustained me a great excess on the upper frets.

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Since I started the Ghostonastring acoustic guitar tutorials, I received some song requests on my YouTube channel.
Some of those requests had some really challenging chord structures since they where tuned in a none traditional tuning, So I had to figure out those songs so you can play them in standard tuning.

Some of those songs are "Iris - Goo Goo Dolls", "Interface - Extreme" and "the Silent man - Dream Theater" , and those will be one of the first new songs added to the ghostonastring acoustic guitar tutorials list.
I believe there are now 12 songs on the request/to do list, so if you want me to cover one of you favorite songs, just let me know and I will look into it.

I hope that I can show you the difference in sound for each of these Washburn guitars, and how to get the best out of them for your own work or when you want to play along with your favorite songs.

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The top headstock was a little chipped/cracked in the lacquer, no big deal and it didn't influence the sound for the guitar it was just a cosmetic thing, but I wanted to see if I could fix so it won't show as much anymore.
On the Steward Mac Donald website, I found a video in which they showed some simple tricks to fix small chip's on a guitar body by using some power glue and 2000 grid sandpaper.
Where the main wood color was shown, I had to refill it fist with some matching color.
For this I used some simple water based paint and from there I put a little layer of transparent super glue over it, wait for it to harden so I could put on a second layer, following the same steps until I had a little bump shown.

To make it a smooth surface I used a taped razorblade, meaning that the tape could work as a guide of .003 mm high.
The rest would be sanded by a strip sanding technique from 400, 800, 1200 grid sandpaper, the final was the 2000 water based sandpaper while using the block sanding technique.
To finish it all, I started to buff and polish the surface and now the chipped lacquer looks so much better and this prevents the head stock to chip/crack and further in the future.

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The strings used for this guitar is a set of Martin SP Lifespan MSP7100 Phosphor bronze, Cleartone technology, in the gauge .054, .042, .032, .025, .016 and .012
I go introduced to this set in half 2014, tested it and found out that the overall tonality is warmer, constant and solid.

From now on this will be the set for all my acoustic guitars.
No strap is attached to the guitar yet, I am still looking for some.
Plus the guitar will be used in all future recording projects such as the song recordings and video tutorials.

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